Deck Building Tip

It is not uncommon to discover a tree that was just a sapling when you built your deck has now grown up and is too close to your outdoor living space. Cutting the tree down is an option, especially if it is not healthy and a danger to your home. If you wish to keep the tree, you can preserve it by incorporating it into your deck design and expanding the deck around it.

To do this, you will first need to run beams in front and back of the tree between two double wood joists. Fasten the joists on both sides of the tree with their load being relocated around the tree. Install diagonal supports at the corner and between the joists and the tree, creating an opening. Be sure to leave plenty of room for additional growth!

See past blog on Tips for building a deck around a tree.

• add unique features to railing with decorative post caps or postcovers
• incorporate metal or glass baluster infills to your deck rail
• built in bench seating
• incorporate deck stone transitions
• install low-voltage or solar deck lighting
• place colorful plants on your deck and stairs
• incorporate colorful outdoor furniture
• add a portable water feature or fire bowl

Spring is the right time to clean your decking and railing. Keep in mind, when you build a deck with composite decking and railing, you get years of relaxing, carefree use when compared to traditional lumber decking. There’s no stripping, painting, sealing or staining necessary. Of course, thanks to nature, no product is maintenance free. But with Latitudes decking, a simple, occasional cleaning will prevent the buildup of dirt and chalk—as well as pollen and other debris that cause and accelerate the growth of mold or mildew.

When it’s time to clean your Latitudes composite deck, here are some easy-to-follow guidelines for great results. If you use a pressure washer, use a fan-style tip—and only use the washer to wet down or rinse your deck. Avoid high-pressure blasting that literally can drive dirt and spores deeper into the composite decking surface.

Typically, you can clean your deck with soap, water and a scrub bush or use a high-quality cleaner available at your home-improvement center. Most cleaners contain Sodium Percarbonate and a detergent. These types of cleaners are very effective in removing dirt while bleaching out mold and mildew stains—simply follow the label directions.

When you find stains, there are simple ways to deal with them. For rust stains caused by metal furniture and other sources, look for a deck cleaner containing oxalic acid. To wash away grease and oil stains, use any standard commercial degreaser. Typically, these will contain propylene glycol, sodium hydroxide and detergents.

If your deck has a stubborn grease or oil stain, try a small amount of spot remover or paint thinner. But use it sparingly and wash it away quickly. These products usually contain organic solvents that can attack the grain pattern in your composite deck. Whatever you use to clean your synthetic decking and railing, always perform a test in an inconspicuous area before you use it on the entire surface. Always be certain to read, understand and follow all label instructions.

Some cleaning products and inhibitors may be more effective than others, depending on your environmental conditions. And remember, the best way to manage stains—is not to have them occur. Always try to deal with spills before they have a chance to set-up.

Remember, that while mold and mildew can reappear on any exterior building surface, there are ways to manage them effectively on composite decking. Above all, sit back, relax and enjoy your low-maintenance, high-reward Latitudes composite lumber decking and railing. See additional tips for preventing mold and mildew from my past blog. Also watch our deck cleaning video.

Prior to installing Deckorators aluminum deck rail kit, you may want to contact your local municipality about code requirements for both the height of the upper railing as measured from the deck surface and the open area from the bottom of the lower rail to the deck surface (known as the sweep). I’ll tell you about the standard ranges but keep in mind your local code could be different.

Due to the dozens of attractive Deckorators options, the most challenging part of this process is not the installation – it’s picking the type of baluster and the color. Deckorators originated the decorative balusters category and has provided innovative railing solutions for over a decade. Deckorators all-aluminum railing is specifically designed for use with all Deckorators baluster styles.

Important to note—there are two types of balusters: those that fit between the lower and upper rail and those that face mount to the side of the rails. If you elect to go with balusters between the rails, the holes for the connectors are pre-drilled here in the upper and lower rails. For those that attach to the side of the rails, simply turn the pre-drilled holes downward on the top and bottom rails so the rails don’t take on any precipitation.

Deckorators railing material has a lifetime warranty. It’s made of long-lasting aluminum, which does not rust and makes it ultra-low maintenance. It has a powder coated finish, which looks great, but can get scratched if you’re careless unwrapping and when you’re cutting or drilling. Be careful to not set the pieces down on any metal shavings. Keep your work area free of debris.

Prior to installing the deck railing, there’s a checklist to follow with your existing deck. This post sleeve is meant to fit over posts that are plumb -- not twisted or damaged. Replace the post if necessary. And structural support must come from the continuation of the deck support posts that extend up through the decking or from railing posts bolted to the inside of the rim or outer joists. Railing posts cannot be more than 6 feet apart (on-center).

Once you’ve determined that the posts are good to go, you’ll need to trim the post sleeves to length with a chop saw or circular saw. A carbide-tipped blade works best. Basically, sleeves should be 1-1/2” longer than the rail height. Common rail height is either 36 or 42 inches. However, if you’re installing the optional rail, you’ll need another 1-1/2” of sleeve.

It’s important to note that some wood preservatives may cause an undesirable reaction with aluminum, especially the raw aluminum edge. To prevent this, we have a liner inside the post sleeve and for the raw edge, I recommend shimming or caulking the bottom edge of the post sleeve. After caulking, install the post base trim.

Now it’s time to install the rails and balusters. To determine the length of the top and bottom rails, measure the distance between the installed post sleeves and then remove an additional quarter inch on each end to accommodate the bracket.

For spacing the balusters, Deckorators makes it a snap with pre-drilled holes in the top and bottom rails.

The idea is to try to match the uniform spacing between balusters to the spacing between the end balusters and the posts. To get the proper look, you want the greatest distance possible without exceeding 3-7/8”. To accomplish this, either line up the middle baluster with the center mark or, for spans less than 6 feet on center, line up the space between the balusters at the centerline.

Baluster connectors are secured with a screw on both the top and bottom rails. Be careful you don’t overtighten the screws. And do not insert the balusters until the bottom rail is installed within the brackets mounted on the posts.

To install the brackets, position the bottom rail by using a couple of 2x4 blocks placed under each end of the rail. Spacing of 3” is recommended for the distance between the deck and the bottom of the rail. This is called the sweep and may vary with local building codes. With the bottom rail in position, mark the location of the bracket on both posts. Then pre-drill through the sleeve only using a ¼” drill bit.

Before installing the bottom rail, you’ll need to attach a support block (or foot), cut to size, at the center line.

As noted earlier, some Deckorators balusters are attached on the face of the rails, in which case you would turn down the pre-drilled holes and mark the center line between the two posts. Then, either line up the center baluster or the center of the opening between two balusters. Remember that you want equal end spacing between the last baluster and the post and you don’t want this opening to be greater than 3-7/8”. Now you’re ready to drill the holes for each baluster. For spacing each baluster, I recommend using a small stud block, which is 3-1/2” wide.

The next step is to position and install the top brackets in the same fashion – being careful to pre-drill the bracket holes through the sleeve only. Now before installing the balusters, apply a little adhesive on the outside of the connector or inside the baluster to prevent any turning or rattling in the wind. For balusters that fit inside the rails, simply lower the top rail into position and connect the balusters, gently using a rubber mallet if necessary to eliminate gaps.

An option for a finished look is the cap rail. Cut the cap rail and cap rail insert to length. Something to keep in mind: the cap rail will be ½” longer than the top and bottom rails. Center the cap rail insert on top of the top rail and pre-drill 7 pilot holes for our 6’ span. Screw in the cap rail insert and apply construction adhesive. Situate the cap rail over the cap rail insert by pressing down from one end to the other until it snaps into place. Gently tap with a rubber mallet if needed.

Last item is attaching post caps, which are easily installed using construction adhesive. Choose from pyramid-style or solar post caps if you want to add ambient lighting to your project. Deckorators is the original and finest name in quality post caps.

Now, You should be ready to tackle your Deckorators railing installation with confidence. Be sure to follow the written instructions for recommended drill bit sizes and screws. And remember that deck stair railing kits are also available.

Download step-by-step instructions (PDF file) or see a video.

If you want to preserve and build a tree into a pressure treated lumber deck or composite lumber deck, then be sure to incorporate the tree into your deck design or deck plans.

Begin construction near the tree by running a beam in front and behind the tree between two double wood joists running perpendicular to the house surrounding the tree. The joists should then be fastened on both sides of the tree with their load being relocated around the tree. Install diagonal supports at the corners between the joists and the tree to allow for a round opening.

For an added touch, consider installing landscape lighting in the tree opening or recessed LED deck lighting in treated wood or synthetic decking planks surrounding the tree. Top off the deck railing posts with ambient lights using Deckorators solar post caps. When dark, lights will make the tree and surrounding deck railing stand out.

Build with caution when constructing a deck around a tree. A tree’s root system is very complex and can be easily damaged during construction, especially if you need to dig piers for vertical support. In addition, the root system of the tree must be able to receive enough water to live, so make sure planks are spaced accordingly (about 1/4 inch between each deck board). It’s important to leave enough room around the trunk of the tree (at least 3 inches on all sides) for growth. If designed and constructed properly, you’ll be able to enjoy an attractive deck featuring a unique, natural centerpiece.

If you’re considering a backyard BBQ party to celebrate the end of Summer, you need to be aware of some important safety tips when it comes to using a charcoal/wood fired or gas grill on your wood deck, composite deck or patio.

Read the owner’s manual
Always read the owner’s manual before using your grill and follow specific usage, assembly, and safety procedures. Contact the grill manufacturer if you have specific questions.

Grills are for outside, only
Barbecue grills are designed for outdoor use, only. Never barbecue in your trailer, tent, house, garage, or any enclosed area because carbon monoxide may accumulate and kill you.

Use grills in a well-ventilated area
Set up your grill in an open area that is away from buildings, overhead combustible surfaces, dry leaves, or brush. Be sure to avoid high traffic areas and always barbecue in a well-ventilated area. Be aware of wind-blown sparks.

Keep grill stable
When using a barbecue grill, be sure that all parts of the unit are firmly in place and that the grill is stable.

Follow electrical codes
If electrically-operated accessories are used (rotisseries, etc.), be sure they are properly grounded in accordance with local codes. Electrical cords should be placed away from walkways or anywhere people can trip over them.

Use long-handled utensils
Use barbecue utensils with long handles (forks, tongs, etc.) to avoid burns and splatters.

Wear safe clothing
Wear clothing that does not have hanging shirt tails, frills, or apron strings that can catch fire, and use flame-retardant mitts when adjusting hot vents.

Keep fire under control
To put out flare-ups, either raise the grid that the food is on, spread the coals out evenly, or adjust the controls to lower the temperature. If you must douse the flames with a light spritz of water, first remove the food from the grill.

Be ready to extinguish flames
Use baking soda to control a grease fire and have a fire extinguisher handy. A bucket of sand or a garden hose should be near if you don’t have a commercial extinguisher.

Consider placing a grill pad or splatter mat beneath your grill.
These naturally heat resistant pads are usually made of lightweight composite cement or plastic and will protect your wood and composite deck or patio from any grease that misses the drip pan. Latitudes offers deck stones which provide a durable barrier to place your grill on.

Never leave a grill unattended once lit

Stay away from hot grill
Don’t allow anyone to conduct activity near the grill when in use or immediately following its use.
The grill body remains hot up to an hour after being used.

Don’t move a hot grill
Never attempt to move a hot grill. It’s easy to stumble or drop it and serious burns could result.

Tips for Safe Barbecuing Fact Sheet
Content courtesy of Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association.

Spring is the start of the outdoor living season when homeowners begin to get their deck or patio ready for outdoor entertaining. Here are some general tips for cleaning your composite deck along with types of cleaning agents best suited for washing composite decking materials.

Wash and rinse your deck
Start cleaning your composite decking by washing with soapy water. Start at the top of the deck railing and work your way down to the composite deck surface. It's necessary to remove the dirt and chalking that accumulates on the composite deck surface. This will also prevent the build-up of pollen and debris that can cause mold and mildew growth. Pressure washers should only be used at lower pressures to wet and rinse synthetic decking and railing. Pressure washers should not be used to “blast-off” soiling agents; attempting to do so can drive the dirt deeper into the decking material. Test on an inconspicuous area before washing the entire deck.

Basic deck cleaning agents
Deck wash / cleaners usually contain sodium percarbonate and a detergent, which is effective on normal dirt and grime and bleaches out mold and mildew stains. Oxalic acid cleaners are effective on rust stains from metal patio furniture. Commercial degreasers contain propylene glycol, sodium hydroxide, and various detergents for removing grease and oil stains.

When cleaning composite decking, spot removers can be used sparingly on those stubborn grease or oil stains but should be washed off quickly with water, as it will attack the grain pattern. They normally include petroleum distillates, xylene, methanol, acetone, or other organic solvents.

Mold and mildew can be a nuisance on any exterior building surface, regardless of the material. If the conditions are right, they will spawn on wood, plastic, concrete, metal and other surfaces. Mold formation is most prevalent in consistently wet, shaded areas. Spores from the natural environment are carried by the wind and commonly land on decks surfaces. It is important to note that the appearance of mold and mildew is a function of nature, not necessarily a deficiency with any of the material on which it grows.

Deck Cleaning
Periodic washing with soap/detergent and water will help remove surface dirt. This will also help prevent the buildup of pollen, debris and spores that can cause and accelerate mold/mildew growth (it also helps to remove deck mold). Caution: A pressure washer should not be used to “blast” mold/mildew or soils from a deck surface. The abrasive nature of the water stream can potentially damage the material by driving the spores into the material, which may create a morechallenging problem to remediate. A pressure washer with a fan-tipped nozzle should be used only to lightly wet or rinse wood or composite deck surfaces. 

There are many deck wash and exterior cleaning products available at retail. It is important to make sure you use a cleaner specifically intended for your application. After selecting a product, be certain to read, understand and follow all instructions supplied by the manufacturer. Some cleaning products and inhibitors may be more effective than others, depending on the environmental conditions your deck is subjected to. Additionally, it is always a good idea to test the cleaner in a small, inconspicuous area prior to applying it to the entire deck.

Mold Inhibitors
As with deck washes, there are several mold-inhibitor products available from paint stores, hardware stores, online outlets and home centers to help prevent long-term mold/mildew growth. For any product selected, be certain to read, understand and follow all instructions provided by the manufacturer. Depending upon the environmental factors affecting your composite lumber or treated wood deck, some preventive cleaning products may be more effective than others. It may be necessary to try more than one product. For ongoing preventive maintenance, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.