Deck Joist Spacing

It is not uncommon to discover a tree that was just a sapling when you built your deck has now grown up and is too close to your outdoor living space. Cutting the tree down is an option, especially if it is not healthy and a danger to your home. If you wish to keep the tree, you can preserve it by incorporating it into your deck design and expanding the deck around it.

To do this, you will first need to run beams in front and back of the tree between two double wood joists. Fasten the joists on both sides of the tree with their load being relocated around the tree. Install diagonal supports at the corner and between the joists and the tree, creating an opening. Be sure to leave plenty of room for additional growth!

See past blog on Tips for building a deck around a tree.

Seal Air Leaks

Many air leaks and drafts are easy to find because they are easy to feel — like those around windows and doors. But holes hidden in attics, basements, and crawlspaces are usually bigger problems. Sealing these leaks with caulk, spray foam, or weather stripping will have a big impact on improving your comfort level and reducing utility bills.

Common locations for air leaks:

• Wiring and plumbing entrances
• Recessed lighting
• Basement rim joists
• Windows and doors
• Electrical and gas service entrances
• Outdoor water faucets
• Where dryer vents pass through walls

Turn on Ceiling Fans

By using a ceiling fan you can then increase the thermostat setting a few degrees, resulting in reduced air conditioning energy cost.

In the summer, make sure all ceiling fans are turned on and spin in the counterclockwise direction. The airflow produces a cooling effect, making you feel cooler and more comfortable. In the winter, when the furnace is on and the heat rises to the ceiling, use the ceiling fan at low speed in the clockwise direction. This creates an updraft, which directs warm air near the ceiling down into the occupied space. Remember to adjust your thermostat when using your ceiling fan — additional energy and dollar savings could be realized with this simple step!

Change out incandescent light bulbs

Compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) consume about 75 percent less energy than a typical incandescent light bulb. And CFLs last up to 10X longer than an incandescent bulb. CFLs are affordable and are designed to fit into your current fixtures. Installing CFLs in your home will help save up to $30 dollars in electricity cost during the life of the bulb.

Add the proper amount of attic insulation

Inadequate insulation and air leakage are leading causes of energy waste in most homes. Heat flows naturally from a warmer to a cooler space. In winter, the heat moves directly from heated living areas to the outdoors and to adjacent unheated attics, garages, and basements - wherever there is a difference in temperature. During the summer, heat moves from outdoors to the house interior. To maintain comfort, the heat lost in winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in summer must be removed by your air conditioner. Insulating ceilings, walls, and floors decreases the heating or cooling needed by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.

There are several common types of insulation — fiberglass (in both batt and blown forms), cellulose, rigid foam board, and spray foam. Reflective insulation (or radiant barrier) is another insulating product which can help save energy in hot, sunny climates.

Install a Radiant Barrier in the attic

Radiant barriers, like Energy Star certified Enerflex®, work by reducing heat transfer of thermal radiation across the air space between the roof deck (attic ceiling) and the attic floor, where conventional insulation is normally placed. In other words radiant barriers assist in blocking or reflecting heat transfer.

A radiant barrier installed in the attic works by reducing the amount of radiant heat on various components in the attic. These are typically thermal attic insulation, duct work, HVAC equipment, and other building components. Since the amount of radiant heat contacting the top of the insulation is less than it would have been without a radiant barrier, the insulation surface temperature is lower and the heat flow through the insulation is reduced. The best radiant barrier insulation, such as Enerflex, will significantly reduce the amount of energy radiated from the top surface of the insulation.

Enerflex qualifies for a 2011 tax $500 tax credit!

Request a sample of Enerflex Radiant Barrier.

See this blog post on how installing a radiant barrier in your attic can extend the life of your A/C unit.

Prior to installing Deckorators aluminum deck rail kit, you may want to contact your local municipality about code requirements for both the height of the upper railing as measured from the deck surface and the open area from the bottom of the lower rail to the deck surface (known as the sweep). I’ll tell you about the standard ranges but keep in mind your local code could be different.

Due to the dozens of attractive Deckorators options, the most challenging part of this process is not the installation – it’s picking the type of baluster and the color. Deckorators originated the decorative balusters category and has provided innovative railing solutions for over a decade. Deckorators all-aluminum railing is specifically designed for use with all Deckorators baluster styles.

Important to note—there are two types of balusters: those that fit between the lower and upper rail and those that face mount to the side of the rails. If you elect to go with balusters between the rails, the holes for the connectors are pre-drilled here in the upper and lower rails. For those that attach to the side of the rails, simply turn the pre-drilled holes downward on the top and bottom rails so the rails don’t take on any precipitation.

Deckorators railing material has a lifetime warranty. It’s made of long-lasting aluminum, which does not rust and makes it ultra-low maintenance. It has a powder coated finish, which looks great, but can get scratched if you’re careless unwrapping and when you’re cutting or drilling. Be careful to not set the pieces down on any metal shavings. Keep your work area free of debris.

Prior to installing the deck railing, there’s a checklist to follow with your existing deck. This post sleeve is meant to fit over posts that are plumb -- not twisted or damaged. Replace the post if necessary. And structural support must come from the continuation of the deck support posts that extend up through the decking or from railing posts bolted to the inside of the rim or outer joists. Railing posts cannot be more than 6 feet apart (on-center).

Once you’ve determined that the posts are good to go, you’ll need to trim the post sleeves to length with a chop saw or circular saw. A carbide-tipped blade works best. Basically, sleeves should be 1-1/2” longer than the rail height. Common rail height is either 36 or 42 inches. However, if you’re installing the optional rail, you’ll need another 1-1/2” of sleeve.

It’s important to note that some wood preservatives may cause an undesirable reaction with aluminum, especially the raw aluminum edge. To prevent this, we have a liner inside the post sleeve and for the raw edge, I recommend shimming or caulking the bottom edge of the post sleeve. After caulking, install the post base trim.

Now it’s time to install the rails and balusters. To determine the length of the top and bottom rails, measure the distance between the installed post sleeves and then remove an additional quarter inch on each end to accommodate the bracket.

For spacing the balusters, Deckorators makes it a snap with pre-drilled holes in the top and bottom rails.

The idea is to try to match the uniform spacing between balusters to the spacing between the end balusters and the posts. To get the proper look, you want the greatest distance possible without exceeding 3-7/8”. To accomplish this, either line up the middle baluster with the center mark or, for spans less than 6 feet on center, line up the space between the balusters at the centerline.

Baluster connectors are secured with a screw on both the top and bottom rails. Be careful you don’t overtighten the screws. And do not insert the balusters until the bottom rail is installed within the brackets mounted on the posts.

To install the brackets, position the bottom rail by using a couple of 2x4 blocks placed under each end of the rail. Spacing of 3” is recommended for the distance between the deck and the bottom of the rail. This is called the sweep and may vary with local building codes. With the bottom rail in position, mark the location of the bracket on both posts. Then pre-drill through the sleeve only using a ¼” drill bit.

Before installing the bottom rail, you’ll need to attach a support block (or foot), cut to size, at the center line.

As noted earlier, some Deckorators balusters are attached on the face of the rails, in which case you would turn down the pre-drilled holes and mark the center line between the two posts. Then, either line up the center baluster or the center of the opening between two balusters. Remember that you want equal end spacing between the last baluster and the post and you don’t want this opening to be greater than 3-7/8”. Now you’re ready to drill the holes for each baluster. For spacing each baluster, I recommend using a small stud block, which is 3-1/2” wide.

The next step is to position and install the top brackets in the same fashion – being careful to pre-drill the bracket holes through the sleeve only. Now before installing the balusters, apply a little adhesive on the outside of the connector or inside the baluster to prevent any turning or rattling in the wind. For balusters that fit inside the rails, simply lower the top rail into position and connect the balusters, gently using a rubber mallet if necessary to eliminate gaps.

An option for a finished look is the cap rail. Cut the cap rail and cap rail insert to length. Something to keep in mind: the cap rail will be ½” longer than the top and bottom rails. Center the cap rail insert on top of the top rail and pre-drill 7 pilot holes for our 6’ span. Screw in the cap rail insert and apply construction adhesive. Situate the cap rail over the cap rail insert by pressing down from one end to the other until it snaps into place. Gently tap with a rubber mallet if needed.

Last item is attaching post caps, which are easily installed using construction adhesive. Choose from pyramid-style or solar post caps if you want to add ambient lighting to your project. Deckorators is the original and finest name in quality post caps.

Now, You should be ready to tackle your Deckorators railing installation with confidence. Be sure to follow the written instructions for recommended drill bit sizes and screws. And remember that deck stair railing kits are also available.

Download step-by-step instructions (PDF file) or see a video.

If you want to preserve and build a tree into a pressure treated lumber deck or composite lumber deck, then be sure to incorporate the tree into your deck design or deck plans.

Begin construction near the tree by running a beam in front and behind the tree between two double wood joists running perpendicular to the house surrounding the tree. The joists should then be fastened on both sides of the tree with their load being relocated around the tree. Install diagonal supports at the corners between the joists and the tree to allow for a round opening.

For an added touch, consider installing landscape lighting in the tree opening or recessed LED deck lighting in treated wood or synthetic decking planks surrounding the tree. Top off the deck railing posts with ambient lights using Deckorators solar post caps. When dark, lights will make the tree and surrounding deck railing stand out.

Build with caution when constructing a deck around a tree. A tree’s root system is very complex and can be easily damaged during construction, especially if you need to dig piers for vertical support. In addition, the root system of the tree must be able to receive enough water to live, so make sure planks are spaced accordingly (about 1/4 inch between each deck board). It’s important to leave enough room around the trunk of the tree (at least 3 inches on all sides) for growth. If designed and constructed properly, you’ll be able to enjoy an attractive deck featuring a unique, natural centerpiece.

This alternative to pressure treated wood is surprisingly sustainable. The decking market offers dealers and contractors a clear opportunity that is growing in a number of ways. First is market size: The Cleveland-based Freedonia Group says that decking is expected to grow by about 20 percent annually to become a 3.6-billion-lineal-foot industry by 2011. Secondly, the decking market is growing in sophistication. Decking contractors are no longer banging galvy 10d nails in CCA #2 southern yellow pine, as we did in the 1980s. Today decks are part of so-called outdoor living space, and that has even developed into a designer specialty.

For dealers and contractors alike, decks and deck building material offer good-margin, low-maintenance products to customers, who are increasingly willing to pay premiums for products that they will proudly display in high-profile areas of their homes. Today, although decking is still a product that most general-contractors offer, you are seeing an increased number of specialty deck-only operations, and there is a great opportunity for dealers to cater to them.

Decking in the broadest sense of the word now includes four category of products: All-plastic decking, Wood, Composites, and—increasingly uncommon—Aluminum.

The all-plastic decking products are different from “composite decking,” which contains plastic and fiber (more on that below), and plastic decking breaks down into sub-categories by differentiating themselves from one another by the source and type of plastic, and sometimes by the plastic’s recyclability. The most popular choices of deck plastics break out into five categories:

1. Common HDPE  (#2, milk jugs);
2. Recycled high-density polyethylene plastic (ReHDPE);
3. Polypropylene (think Tupperware);
4. Solid polyvinyl chloride a.k.a. PVC;
5. Cellular PVC (polyvinyl chloride with a foaming agent).

 (It important to know the difference between the types of plastic, because they are also used in composite decking material.)

With so many kinds of plastic, manufactures of all-plastic decks will point out differences in the plastics they use, especially where the plastics come from. Marketers of decking will take great pride in features like “virgin plastic,” or a high percentage of “post consumer resins” (PCR), and even “100% recyclable.” Also, since plastic decking can be manufactured through extrusion (that is, product that is pushed through a mould), even the speed of extrusion can be a selling factor, because a product that is extruded too quickly is considered poorer quality.

Whether you are dealing with all-plastic decking or composites, HDPE is the most commonly used product. It performs very well in most situations, and expands only along its length, like vinyl siding. Plus, it does not swell, as many lumber products will. Manufactures argue that it retains color well. Plus, the all-plastic product is entirely recyclable.

Another product, all-plastic PVC decking generally has resistance to scratching, staining, and fading that is superior to composite decking. But PVC decking has been getting slammed for the toxicity of the manufacturing process, which can release mercury and dioxin. That said, there is a green case to be made for PVC’s performance and durability, and it goes like this: If you use PVC (in all-plastic or composite products), you are less likely to harvest, manufacture, and ship replacement products, which therefore makes PVC a viable alternative to wood. What’s greener: a 30-year plastic or PVC deck…or a wood deck that has to harvested, shipped, installed and shoveled into the landfill three times in those three decades?

Now, on to composite decking. It’s called composite or synthetic decking because it has more than one component, and this class of decking has some characteristics of wood and some of plastic. Most composite wood decking is created when wood is added to plastic resin (usually polyethylene). Since the properties of composite decking vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, marketers will differentiate their products using various metrics or features, most notably:

• The source of their plastics (“post-consumer” is considered greener),
• The percent of recycled plastic (for those who want to use recycled products),
• The percent of virgin plastic (for those who don’t want to use recycled plastics because of perceived quality issues),
• The source of the non-plastic components used (recovered wood is the greenest alternative),
• The quality of the post-consumer resin used in the plastic (you don’t want chopped-up milk and vitamin labels in the deck boards),
• The color-fast properties of the decking (fading is so common among some it’s sometimes called a “mellowing process”),
• The surface feel and slip-resistance,
• The structural performance of the product (look for 16 o-c span-ability),
• The UV-protection the decking (anything to frustrate the sun’s punishing rays), and
• The deck board’s weight per board food (for transportation, easy handling during installation, and span loading).

 For a good composite example, let’s look at a popular product and see how it presents itself in these categories. Latitudes composite wood decking is made with both recycled and virgin polyethylene, and 100% of the wood additive is reclaimed product. Indeed, Latitudes is made from approximately 70% recycled materials. It’s “barefoot friendly,” slip-resistant, and reversible with a brushed finish on one side, and a wood grain look on the other, so you can choose look-and-feel. Latitudes comes in six colors—gray, cedar, redwood and walnut, and the specialty colors of Koa and Adobe in the tropical wood-look Latitudes Capricorn composite decking.

No matter what composite deck boards you're looking for, be sure they can span 16-o.c. joists, and that they comply with the all the crucial codes and standards. Look for a warranty of at least 10 years, and it should cover splintering, corrosion, as well as rot, warp, cupping, checks, or damage caused by termites or fungal decay. And finally, urge your customers to purchase premium products, for their own sake. If they always use low cost as the ultimate metric of value, they risk their reputations, as well as the prospect for annoying callbacks that are hard to solve without painful and costly tear-outs.

If you're thinking about having a new dock built or are about to replace an existing dock, then consider two popular types of decking material—natural lumber decking and composite lumber decking. Each type of dock / deck building material has it's own unique benefits, and each has passed the test of time in unforgiving elements.

Natural Lumber Decking

Pressure-treated wood decking is a great option for a tighter budget. The classic look of wood gives a more rustic feel, and can be stained or painted to match virtually any color scheme. Pressure-treated decking can be notched for installation of hidden deck fasteners for a clean, fastener-free appearance.

Tropical hardwood has a highly desired exotic look and is very durable. Hardwood species like Ipe have been known to last over twenty years. Tropical decking like Abaco can span greater distances to accommodate wide 24" on center joist spacing. Some hardwood decking comes pre-grooved for use with a hidden fastener system.

Composite Lumber Decking

Composite decking is manufactured from wood fiber and plastic to form a plank that requires less maintenance and typically has a longer lifespan than natural wood decking. Composite lumber is similar in cost to tropical hardwood and has many of the same benefits. Like tropical hardwood, Latitudes Marine composite decking allows for long 24" on-center joist spans. Latitudes Marine also incorporates a profiled edge specifically designed for docks, boardwalks and walkways. Additional benefits of composite lumber decking is that it's barefoot friendly, slip-resistant and comes in a variety of colors that never need to be sealed or stained.