PVC Decking

Decks are a great “value add” for residents, but property managers face plenty of risks—including having a deck collapse—if their deck isn’t regularly inspected and maintained. It’s happening more frequently than many property managers and homeowners realize. Between 2003 and 2007, the Consumer Product Safety Commission reported 224,740 injuries caused by outdoor decks and porches. “What’s happening across this country is an epidemic at this point,” says Michael Beaudry, executive vice president of the North American Deck and Railing Association (NADRA), adding that “in most cases if a deck fails, it’s a matter of neglect.”

The Ledger Connection
Common deck failures include a stair collapsing or a railing giving way. Of all the parts of a deck, “the most notoriously overlooked has been the ledger connection,” says Glenn Mathewson, a former deck builder and technical adviser to NADRA and International Code Council-certified Master Code Professional. The ledger connection is the board that connects the deck to a home or property, which can rot away, causing the deck to completely collapse. But, adds Mathewson, “poor construction and a lack of standards for construction is a large contributor to the problem.”

Not maintaining and regularly inspecting the deck, especially the ledger, puts your deck at risk for a collapse—and puts your occupants at risk for injury. “The lack of maintenance and the lack of knowledge of poor condition of the materials would be a due-diligence risk,” Mathewson says. “It would be like allowing the paint to peel off a house, but with much more drastic results.”

Is Your Deck Wood or Composite?
That’s why it’s important to know what material was used to build your deck. Newer decks may be made of composite materials, usually a mixture of wood components and plastic, which range in type, density and strength, but are not as strong as wood, Mathewson says. “Imagine the strength of a plastic shopping bag compared to the strength of Tupperware,” Mathewson says. “They’re going to have different strength properties as well as different properties of expansion and contraction.” Composite decking is available in three different series and grades, Boyer says, with the most current known as capstock decking, which combines composites of a plastic and wood fiber core wrapped in an outside vinyl layer (PVC) which keeps water out. Be careful, cautions Mathewson, composite lumber decking may not span as far across joists, the boards that run perpendicular to the house in a deck fame, as the wood decking you wanted to replace. “It’s not a one-for-one trade,” he says.

Know The Code
Codes may be a pain to follow, but if you’re building or remodeling a deck there’s a reason behind using them: safety. Make sure that if you’re interested in building a deck on your property or adding additional decks, you research the building code for your local jurisdiction. It may be your municipality or your state that oversees this. The American Forest & Paper Association has a guide on building decks based on recent building codes and www.deckfailure.com has a variety of white papers and tips on building and maintaining decks.

There are many codes that apply not only to residential property such as single family or town homes, but commercial establishments such as apartment complexes and condos sometimes aren’t always the same. These are key differences for commercial decks:

• Railing height is higher at 42 inches.
• Commercial deck stairs are standard; residential deck stairs can be steeper.
• The live load weight requirement is more, at 100 pounds per square foot.

What To Inspect On A Deck
Deck inspections are a needed service that isn’t being met, but property managers can be proactive about it themselves by having a building professional or home inspector check your deck, Mathewson says. “We’re talking about people’s lives and it does make a difference,” agrees Beaudry.

When inspecting a deck on your property, it’s important to review all the components. Mathewson and Joel Boyer, owner of Unique Deck Builders and Unique Builders, suggest this checklist to inspect your deck:

• Evaluate the condition of deck railing, guards and stairs
• Review screws and board connections to make sure they’re not rusted or broken.
• Look for debris in cracks, water stains, corrosion or rotting
• Is the flashing (metal barrier material that prevents moisture from entering the house) keeping water out?
• Does the deck sway?
• Is the deck sinking or heaving?
• Do the stairs feel sound and solid?
• If one deck is having problems on a multi-unit property with multiple decks, make sure to inspect all the decks

NADRA also offers a deck evaluation checklist that covers the ledger connection, posts and footing, post-to-beam connections, joists and joist connections, stairs, deck boards and hand rails.

By inspecting your deck regularly and ensuring that it’s up to standards can help you keep residents and guests safe on a deck. “The bottom line for property managers,” Beaudry says, “is that they need to be proactive rather than reactive.”

Courtesy of NADRA.ORG

See past blog posts on cleaning your composite decking and railing in the spring.

A graspable secondary handrail is an important component to consider when planning a deck with stairs. So whether you're constructing a residential composite deck, lumber deck or a deck made from other decking material, you're typically required to install a graspable secondary handrail on one side of the deck's stair railing when there are four or more stair risers present.

Key Residential Stair Handrail Requirements (IRC - International Residential Code)

1. Stairways having four or more risers, or rising more than 30 inches in height, whichever is less, must have at least one grab rail.
2. Handrails with a circular cross section shall have an outside diameter of at least 1-1/4 inches and not greater than 2 inches. If the handrail is not circular it shall have a perimeter dimension of at least 4 inches and not greater than 6-1/4 inches with a maximum cross section of dimension of 2-1/4 inches.
3. The grab rail must terminate at the newel post (top and bottom posts).
4. Clear space between a handrail and a wall or other surface shall be a minimum of 1-1/2 inches.
5. The height of handrails must be installed 34 inches - 38 inches from the upper surface of the handrail to the surface of the tread.

Graspable secondary handrails are required by more and more building codes / deck codes in areas across the country. Both Deckorators and Latitudes brands feature a secondary handrail system in their respective deck railing products lineups.

These attractive and highly versatile graspable handrails are ideal for meeting building codes when required. Made of heavy gauge aluminum and durable PVC, these systems include five different radius elbows and several styles of returns to meet every possible installation. The railing is available in three colors (adobe, tan and white) to complement a homes exterior.

As always, check your local building code or ask your building inspector to make sure you or your contractor installs a secondary handrail when required by law.

Check out the American Wood Council's "Design for Code Acceptance" document for complete details. Stair handrail requirements are outlined on page 18.

Looking to distribute secondary handrails or components? Look to Waymark to supply all your fence and railing accessories.

Crush blocks are important support pieces that fit snugly between the bottom section of your deck railing and deck surface. These blocks are used to support composite / synthetic wood railing, PVC railing, wood railing and many other deck railing material to keep the rail section from sagging and possibly warping over time.

Crush blocks are often made from leftover deck building material like 2x2 composite decking pieces, aluminum balusters, square aluminum balusters or treated lumber. You can also cut a piece of 5/4x6 decking and stand it on end under the bottom rail of a deck railing section. Secure the crush block with a silicone adhesive or with a fastener.

Deck or porch railing, balcony railing and angled deck stair railing from 2-ft up to 4-ft wide require one crush block while railing sections of 4-ft up to 6-ft wide require at least two crush blocks. More rigid aluminum railing typically only needs one crush block per 6-ft rail section.

This alternative to pressure treated wood is surprisingly sustainable. The decking market offers dealers and contractors a clear opportunity that is growing in a number of ways. First is market size: The Cleveland-based Freedonia Group says that decking is expected to grow by about 20 percent annually to become a 3.6-billion-lineal-foot industry by 2011. Secondly, the decking market is growing in sophistication. Decking contractors are no longer banging galvy 10d nails in CCA #2 southern yellow pine, as we did in the 1980s. Today decks are part of so-called outdoor living space, and that has even developed into a designer specialty.

For dealers and contractors alike, decks and deck building material offer good-margin, low-maintenance products to customers, who are increasingly willing to pay premiums for products that they will proudly display in high-profile areas of their homes. Today, although decking is still a product that most general-contractors offer, you are seeing an increased number of specialty deck-only operations, and there is a great opportunity for dealers to cater to them.

Decking in the broadest sense of the word now includes four category of products: All-plastic decking, Wood, Composites, and—increasingly uncommon—Aluminum.

The all-plastic decking products are different from “composite decking,” which contains plastic and fiber (more on that below), and plastic decking breaks down into sub-categories by differentiating themselves from one another by the source and type of plastic, and sometimes by the plastic’s recyclability. The most popular choices of deck plastics break out into five categories:

1. Common HDPE  (#2, milk jugs);
2. Recycled high-density polyethylene plastic (ReHDPE);
3. Polypropylene (think Tupperware);
4. Solid polyvinyl chloride a.k.a. PVC;
5. Cellular PVC (polyvinyl chloride with a foaming agent).

 (It important to know the difference between the types of plastic, because they are also used in composite decking material.)

With so many kinds of plastic, manufactures of all-plastic decks will point out differences in the plastics they use, especially where the plastics come from. Marketers of decking will take great pride in features like “virgin plastic,” or a high percentage of “post consumer resins” (PCR), and even “100% recyclable.” Also, since plastic decking can be manufactured through extrusion (that is, product that is pushed through a mould), even the speed of extrusion can be a selling factor, because a product that is extruded too quickly is considered poorer quality.

Whether you are dealing with all-plastic decking or composites, HDPE is the most commonly used product. It performs very well in most situations, and expands only along its length, like vinyl siding. Plus, it does not swell, as many lumber products will. Manufactures argue that it retains color well. Plus, the all-plastic product is entirely recyclable.

Another product, all-plastic PVC decking generally has resistance to scratching, staining, and fading that is superior to composite decking. But PVC decking has been getting slammed for the toxicity of the manufacturing process, which can release mercury and dioxin. That said, there is a green case to be made for PVC’s performance and durability, and it goes like this: If you use PVC (in all-plastic or composite products), you are less likely to harvest, manufacture, and ship replacement products, which therefore makes PVC a viable alternative to wood. What’s greener: a 30-year plastic or PVC deck…or a wood deck that has to harvested, shipped, installed and shoveled into the landfill three times in those three decades?

Now, on to composite decking. It’s called composite or synthetic decking because it has more than one component, and this class of decking has some characteristics of wood and some of plastic. Most composite wood decking is created when wood is added to plastic resin (usually polyethylene). Since the properties of composite decking vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, marketers will differentiate their products using various metrics or features, most notably:

• The source of their plastics (“post-consumer” is considered greener),
• The percent of recycled plastic (for those who want to use recycled products),
• The percent of virgin plastic (for those who don’t want to use recycled plastics because of perceived quality issues),
• The source of the non-plastic components used (recovered wood is the greenest alternative),
• The quality of the post-consumer resin used in the plastic (you don’t want chopped-up milk and vitamin labels in the deck boards),
• The color-fast properties of the decking (fading is so common among some it’s sometimes called a “mellowing process”),
• The surface feel and slip-resistance,
• The structural performance of the product (look for 16 o-c span-ability),
• The UV-protection the decking (anything to frustrate the sun’s punishing rays), and
• The deck board’s weight per board food (for transportation, easy handling during installation, and span loading).

 For a good composite example, let’s look at a popular product and see how it presents itself in these categories. Latitudes composite wood decking is made with both recycled and virgin polyethylene, and 100% of the wood additive is reclaimed product. Indeed, Latitudes is made from approximately 70% recycled materials. It’s “barefoot friendly,” slip-resistant, and reversible with a brushed finish on one side, and a wood grain look on the other, so you can choose look-and-feel. Latitudes comes in six colors—gray, cedar, redwood and walnut, and the specialty colors of Koa and Adobe in the tropical wood-look Latitudes Capricorn composite decking.

No matter what composite deck boards you're looking for, be sure they can span 16-o.c. joists, and that they comply with the all the crucial codes and standards. Look for a warranty of at least 10 years, and it should cover splintering, corrosion, as well as rot, warp, cupping, checks, or damage caused by termites or fungal decay. And finally, urge your customers to purchase premium products, for their own sake. If they always use low cost as the ultimate metric of value, they risk their reputations, as well as the prospect for annoying callbacks that are hard to solve without painful and costly tear-outs.