Wood Preservatives

It is not uncommon to discover a tree that was just a sapling when you built your deck has now grown up and is too close to your outdoor living space. Cutting the tree down is an option, especially if it is not healthy and a danger to your home. If you wish to keep the tree, you can preserve it by incorporating it into your deck design and expanding the deck around it.

To do this, you will first need to run beams in front and back of the tree between two double wood joists. Fasten the joists on both sides of the tree with their load being relocated around the tree. Install diagonal supports at the corner and between the joists and the tree, creating an opening. Be sure to leave plenty of room for additional growth!

See past blog on Tips for building a deck around a tree.

I've touched on decorative post caps in many posts, but these ornamental accents are such a versatile and economical way to dress up a deck or fence post, that they deserve their own moment in the spotlight.

Post caps / post tops are easy to install, even for novice do-it-yourselfers. In addition to looking good, they also serve the purpose of protecting your post from the elements. Solar post caps can also add helpful illumination when you enjoy your deck and outdoor living area at night.

If you're looking for a quick, weekend project that will give your outdoor area a whole new look, adding decorative post caps may be the project for you. Here's the 411 on post caps:

Sizing
There are two basic sizes that fit most wood deck railing or fence posts: 4 x 4 and 6 x 6. Measure your railing post to see which size you need. Your post won't measure exactly 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 – that's the "nominal" size. Your posts or post cap opening will most likely measure 3.5 inches square or 5.5 inches square respectively.

Selection
Deckorators offers many styles of post caps to suit virtually every taste and match any decor. Solar post caps come in both glass and metal varieties and require no wiring or electricity. Convertible Post Cap Lights allow you to add light with a candle or a solar cell. You can also opt for a low-voltage lighting kit when you need brighter light to illuminate walkways or steps.

Metal post caps come in a variety of shapes, from a simple pointed cap to an ornate ball design, and finishes, such as copper, stainless or pewter. Wooden post caps are available in a range of designs and can be finishedto match your deck. Glass post caps add a touch of color with basic jewel tones, or a flash of elegance if you opt for Tiffany-style caps. Deckorators' Tiffany-style post caps are handcrafted, transforming your deck railing into a work of art.

Installation
Installing post caps couldn't be easier. Just apply an exterior-grade caulk to the underside of the cap and slip it over the top of the post. Use finishing nails as needed. Just remember to finish your wooden post caps - including the underside - before installation. See detailed installation instructions for various styles.

Maintenance
Of course, you'll need to maintain your post caps in order to preserve their good looks. Fortunately, maintenance needs are basic and easy to accomplish.

Refinish wooden post caps whenever you refinish your deck. For glass post caps, apply car wax or furniture polish to the copper-wrapped solder before you install the caps. This will prevent oxidation. Repeat the waxing process every three to six months, as needed.

Deckorators metal post caps come with a layer of lacquer for protection. Exposure to the elements and sunlight will break down the coating over time. Copper post caps will take on a natural patina. If you want to keep them shiny looking, apply car wax every few months.

Now that you know the basics of decorative post caps, pick your preferred post cap, choose the weekend for your project and get started on one of the easiest, most satisfying deck or fence upgrades you can do.

Prior to installing Deckorators aluminum deck rail kit, you may want to contact your local municipality about code requirements for both the height of the upper railing as measured from the deck surface and the open area from the bottom of the lower rail to the deck surface (known as the sweep). I’ll tell you about the standard ranges but keep in mind your local code could be different.

Due to the dozens of attractive Deckorators options, the most challenging part of this process is not the installation – it’s picking the type of baluster and the color. Deckorators originated the decorative balusters category and has provided innovative railing solutions for over a decade. Deckorators all-aluminum railing is specifically designed for use with all Deckorators baluster styles.

Important to note—there are two types of balusters: those that fit between the lower and upper rail and those that face mount to the side of the rails. If you elect to go with balusters between the rails, the holes for the connectors are pre-drilled here in the upper and lower rails. For those that attach to the side of the rails, simply turn the pre-drilled holes downward on the top and bottom rails so the rails don’t take on any precipitation.

Deckorators railing material has a lifetime warranty. It’s made of long-lasting aluminum, which does not rust and makes it ultra-low maintenance. It has a powder coated finish, which looks great, but can get scratched if you’re careless unwrapping and when you’re cutting or drilling. Be careful to not set the pieces down on any metal shavings. Keep your work area free of debris.

Prior to installing the deck railing, there’s a checklist to follow with your existing deck. This post sleeve is meant to fit over posts that are plumb -- not twisted or damaged. Replace the post if necessary. And structural support must come from the continuation of the deck support posts that extend up through the decking or from railing posts bolted to the inside of the rim or outer joists. Railing posts cannot be more than 6 feet apart (on-center).

Once you’ve determined that the posts are good to go, you’ll need to trim the post sleeves to length with a chop saw or circular saw. A carbide-tipped blade works best. Basically, sleeves should be 1-1/2” longer than the rail height. Common rail height is either 36 or 42 inches. However, if you’re installing the optional rail, you’ll need another 1-1/2” of sleeve.

It’s important to note that some wood preservatives may cause an undesirable reaction with aluminum, especially the raw aluminum edge. To prevent this, we have a liner inside the post sleeve and for the raw edge, I recommend shimming or caulking the bottom edge of the post sleeve. After caulking, install the post base trim.

Now it’s time to install the rails and balusters. To determine the length of the top and bottom rails, measure the distance between the installed post sleeves and then remove an additional quarter inch on each end to accommodate the bracket.

For spacing the balusters, Deckorators makes it a snap with pre-drilled holes in the top and bottom rails.

The idea is to try to match the uniform spacing between balusters to the spacing between the end balusters and the posts. To get the proper look, you want the greatest distance possible without exceeding 3-7/8”. To accomplish this, either line up the middle baluster with the center mark or, for spans less than 6 feet on center, line up the space between the balusters at the centerline.

Baluster connectors are secured with a screw on both the top and bottom rails. Be careful you don’t overtighten the screws. And do not insert the balusters until the bottom rail is installed within the brackets mounted on the posts.

To install the brackets, position the bottom rail by using a couple of 2x4 blocks placed under each end of the rail. Spacing of 3” is recommended for the distance between the deck and the bottom of the rail. This is called the sweep and may vary with local building codes. With the bottom rail in position, mark the location of the bracket on both posts. Then pre-drill through the sleeve only using a ¼” drill bit.

Before installing the bottom rail, you’ll need to attach a support block (or foot), cut to size, at the center line.

As noted earlier, some Deckorators balusters are attached on the face of the rails, in which case you would turn down the pre-drilled holes and mark the center line between the two posts. Then, either line up the center baluster or the center of the opening between two balusters. Remember that you want equal end spacing between the last baluster and the post and you don’t want this opening to be greater than 3-7/8”. Now you’re ready to drill the holes for each baluster. For spacing each baluster, I recommend using a small stud block, which is 3-1/2” wide.

The next step is to position and install the top brackets in the same fashion – being careful to pre-drill the bracket holes through the sleeve only. Now before installing the balusters, apply a little adhesive on the outside of the connector or inside the baluster to prevent any turning or rattling in the wind. For balusters that fit inside the rails, simply lower the top rail into position and connect the balusters, gently using a rubber mallet if necessary to eliminate gaps.

An option for a finished look is the cap rail. Cut the cap rail and cap rail insert to length. Something to keep in mind: the cap rail will be ½” longer than the top and bottom rails. Center the cap rail insert on top of the top rail and pre-drill 7 pilot holes for our 6’ span. Screw in the cap rail insert and apply construction adhesive. Situate the cap rail over the cap rail insert by pressing down from one end to the other until it snaps into place. Gently tap with a rubber mallet if needed.

Last item is attaching post caps, which are easily installed using construction adhesive. Choose from pyramid-style or solar post caps if you want to add ambient lighting to your project. Deckorators is the original and finest name in quality post caps.

Now, You should be ready to tackle your Deckorators railing installation with confidence. Be sure to follow the written instructions for recommended drill bit sizes and screws. And remember that deck stair railing kits are also available.

Download step-by-step instructions (PDF file) or see a video.

If you want to preserve and build a tree into a pressure treated lumber deck or composite lumber deck, then be sure to incorporate the tree into your deck design or deck plans.

Begin construction near the tree by running a beam in front and behind the tree between two double wood joists running perpendicular to the house surrounding the tree. The joists should then be fastened on both sides of the tree with their load being relocated around the tree. Install diagonal supports at the corners between the joists and the tree to allow for a round opening.

For an added touch, consider installing landscape lighting in the tree opening or recessed LED deck lighting in treated wood or synthetic decking planks surrounding the tree. Top off the deck railing posts with ambient lights using Deckorators solar post caps. When dark, lights will make the tree and surrounding deck railing stand out.

Build with caution when constructing a deck around a tree. A tree’s root system is very complex and can be easily damaged during construction, especially if you need to dig piers for vertical support. In addition, the root system of the tree must be able to receive enough water to live, so make sure planks are spaced accordingly (about 1/4 inch between each deck board). It’s important to leave enough room around the trunk of the tree (at least 3 inches on all sides) for growth. If designed and constructed properly, you’ll be able to enjoy an attractive deck featuring a unique, natural centerpiece.

You stand back and admire the beauty of the new wood fence you just put up. How long will that nice, warm wood glow last? Depending on where you live and the intensity of the weather cycles, not long. And not long might mean several months. Whether you stain a fence yourself—and for God’s sake, don’t paint it unless you like doing a bi-annual imitation of Huck Finn—or buy “pre-stained” pickets for your wood fencing, remember that the stain will likely fade faster than Clay Aiken’s career.

Some people prefer the weathered gray patina a wood fence acquires from exposure to the elements. For those who want to retain the rich color of freshly hewn fence pickets for years to come, there’s Microshades. ProWood Micro with Microshades is the only wood fencing product to carry a 2-year No Fade warranty, along with its limited lifetime warranty against rot and termites.

MicroShades uses an in-solution pigment (which means it’s part of the pressure treatment process, not an afterthought) that makes for more consistent coloring and better penetration than staining. Plus, the natural wood characteristics are still visible, not stained over. And, since MicroShades uses the ProWood Micro wood preservative formulation technology, fasteners are not a concern—hot dipped galvanized or better work fine.

Click photos to enlarge

We watched for two years as a wood fence in Tomball, Texas (shown above) took all the punishment Texas summers can dish out. The pictures above show a very dramatic difference in weathering. On the right half of the photo is MicroShades and on the left is cedar fencing. The cedar fence is faded and some nail streaking has occurred already. The wood privacy fencing which uses MicroShades, by contrast, looks like it was put up yesterday.

And if sustained beauty doesn’t make you happy enough, you can take pleasure in knowing the process used to make the MicroShades formulation has won numerous green awards, including Environmentally Preferred Product status by Scientific Certification Systems, the National Association of Home Builders Green Product Award and certification from GreenGuard for Children and Schools.

For more close-up views of the long lasting beauty of MicroShades and a quick peek at how it’s made watch the video.
 

There are several different types of pressure treated wood available in retail lumber yards today. A discussion involving all of them would result in an alphabet soup of acronyms for the various types of treatment formulations.

At Universal Forest Products, we treat our ProWood Micro CA pressure treated lumber with a formulation known as Micronized Copper Azole, or MCA. And its makeup is simpler than you may have guessed.

The finished product contains two active ingredients to stop decay and termite attack: copper and a non-metallic “organic” called tebuconazole. “Azoles” are used in several everyday personal care products such as foot creams and fungal ointments. Copper is, of course, a common metal used for drinking water pipes, wiring, and other applications that humans come in contact with every day. These two ingredients are applied in a mixture of water at a solution strength of less than 1% active ingredients (99% or more water). The  EPA has registered this preservative and deemed it appropriate for the protection of wood from rot and termites where used as directed. The result is pressure treated wood that is an eco friendly product and servicable for decades.

Your home center may have several options when it comes to pressure treated lumber for landscaping. You should know a few basic facts about each before you buy.

3”x5”x8’ landscape ties (nominal measurement)
Most 3”x5”x8’ pressure treated landscape timbers (LST’s) originate as the center cants from plywood veneer peeling mills. Logs are kept wet to make peeling easier and the peeled cants arrive at the pressure treatment plant without benefit of kiln or air drying. Lumber that is not dried before pressure treatment cannot be fully penetrated by the treatment solution during the treatment process. This will be reflected with a shorter term warranty—in the case of ProWood Micro CA treated lumber, one year—than would have been otherwised offered by lumber that had the advantage of full preservative penetration. These ties are not recommended for applications that call for in-ground, structural performance over several years, such as fence posts.
 
4x4 and 6x6 timbers (nominal measurements)
ProWood Micro CA timbers carry either a lifetime limited warranty or a one year warranty, depending on their intended end use. The surest way to know the difference between a timber made for landscaping and a timber made for a structural application is by the warranty. If the timber carries a lifetime limited warranty it means it was dried before pressure treatment and can be warranted for structural use. Generally, these timbers are building code approved and carry an Evaluation Service Report from ICC-ES, a third party testing agency. You can use timbers for fence posts, raised garden beds, retaining walls and any other projects that call for high performance over a long period of time.

End tags
Every piece of treated lumber in the store has an end tag, on which you should find the following:

• Third party testing agency
• Standard to which it is treated (ESR-2240 in ProWood Micro’s case)
• End use (ground contact or above ground, for instance)
• Wood preservatives used (ProWood Micro uses micronized copper azole)
• Treating company’s name
• Warranty
• Handling information

Eco Friendly Products
ProWood Micro treated wood products use the MicroPro treatment process which is certified under SCS's Environmentally Preferable Product (EPP) program. In addition to EPP status, the technology has earned Green Approved Product certification from the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Research Center.

Knowing the above information will help you make the informed choice when specifying your next outdoor landscape project.

The Southern Pine Council recently published its 2010 guide to specifying pressure treated wood: Pressure Treated Southern Pine – standards, specifications and applications. If you've ever had questions regarding this time-honored product line this document will answer them.

• Attributes of the Southern Pine species
• The pressure treating process
• Types of wood preservatives
• The Use Category system (a specifying guide)
• Code standards and building code requirements
• Design values
• Guide to grade and quality marks
• Fastener and connector recommendations
• Use and handling
• Green aspects of wood in general and pressure treated lumber in particular

Here’s the answer to the question of which brand of pressure treated lumber is best:
Universal’s ProWood^® Micro pressure treated lumber products use a wood preservative process that has received environmentally preferable product status. ProWood Micro pressure treated wood products have gained enthusiastic acceptance in the marketplace and are in thousands of retail locations. Its many features and benefits, including sustainability attributes, fastener advantages and performance, make it the choice of professionals and home owners everywhere.

There are interesting new developments in the Osmose vs. Viance court battle. Viance, a maker of treated wood chemicals, has claimed publicly competitor Osmose’s wildly popular pressure treated lumber formulation MicroPro, which is used by Universal in its ProWood Micro brand of treated wood, doesn’t work as advertised. Not sitting still for this, Osmose sued, and on March 24 a judge issued a temporary restraining order (TRO), forcing Viance to cease its attacks.

On September 29th, Osmose was granted a motion for preliminary injunction reaffirming that Viance must stop its negative marketing campaign against the MicroPro technology and micronized copper wood preservatives.  Viance tried hard to get the judge to lift the TRO and was denied with this ruling. By continuing the restraining order the judge has affirmed the court’s position that Viance must discontinue their attacks on MicroPro.

Both Osmose and Viance have sought injunctions against one other. They are almost mirrors of each another, both accusing the other of misleading statements and false advertising. The judge said “yes” to Osmose and “no” to Viance. Emphatically so, if you read the court order, available here: http://www.treatedwoodtruth.com/pdf/09-29-09-USDC-188-Order-on-Preliminary-Injunction-Osmose-vs-Viance.pdf

Of significance is the fact that Viance does not have any details of this latest ruling, with the exception of their own press release, on their Web site. The fact that the latest court order cannot be found there raises the question, "Why not?"

Various industry publications are lining up with Osmose on this issue. Their comments can be found here:

http://www.prosalesmagazine.com/industry-news.asp?referer=rss427&sectionID=427&articleID=1087411

And here:

http://www.remodeling.hw.net/blogs/postdetails.aspx?BlogId=tedsremodelingblog&postId=89675

Documents related to this case can be found on the treatedwoodtruth.com site, here: http://www.treatedwoodtruth.com/index.php

We are seeing some real innovation with wood treatments these days; whether it’s wood for decking, siding, or part of the structural frame. At the root of this topic is the fact that, when left untreated or when unprotected, wood can rot. Even premium species like cedar and redwood—which are naturally decay- and rot-resistant—require treatment to extend their useful lives.

Today’s wood treatments range widely from chemical treatments to heat treatments (a.k.a. “thermally modified wood”). And if you are looking for the green angle here, the simple fact that wood treatments can dramatically extend the life of the wood is a very “green” attribute indeed—in a life cycle analysis, it lowers the environmental costs of re-harvesting (and re-treating, and re-shipping and re-installing) replacement wood products. However, each wood treatment method has its merits, and each one has features that can make it more or less green. Let’s take a closer look by first reviewing a brief history of wood treatment.

Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA)
For a long time, Chromated Copper Arsenate, or “CCA” was the formula for treating lumber. For decades, it was common to see “green” CCA decks – the green was the color of the oxidized copper. And CCA-treated wood was also commonly used in most ground-contact situations. In the ‘90’s new alternatives to CCA were introduced. None took meaningful market share from CCA because none could match its performance and value. As the millennium approached, there was increased scrutiny regarding the perceived safety of CCA as reported by various “consumer advocate” reporters and environmental organizations. In 2003, treaters voluntarily stopped using CCA for residential applications and newer, more expensive formulations replaced CCA. One bright spot that emerged from the demise of CCA was that the pace of innovation in preservative development quickened.

Alkaline Copper (ACQ) & Copper Azole (CA-B)
The replacement wood preservative treatments were ACQ and CA-B. Let’s first look at ACQ.  ACQ is a treatment consisting of alkaline copper, a fungicide, and quaternary ammonia (sometimes called quat), which serves as an insecticide. On the other hand, CA-B is a treatment containing mostly copper and azole; the azole is a fungicide that appears in various chemical forms. If you step back and take notice, there are two consistent elements in these approaches to wood treatment. One, they all are aimed at stopping rot, decay, fungus, and insects from getting to the wood.  And two, they all overwhelmingly contain copper, a natural, harmless wood preservative. As wood treatments have evolved, some wood treaters (and the chemical companies that license their formulas to these wood treaters) have stayed with copper. But they have eliminated other chemicals in their wood preservative formulations.

Micronized Copper (MCQ)
Among the most positive result was the recent introduction of a new micronized copper wood preservative. Developed by Osmose, Inc., and marketed as ProWood Micro (MCQ Treated Wood), the new process bonds microscopic copper particles to the wood cells. Because of this there is no need for a solvent (which is still used in most other non-micronized formulations) . These attributes have earned the ProWood Micro formulation Environmentally Preferrable Product (EPP) status from Scientific Certification Systems, a leading third party certification firm. This is the first and only such preservative to earn this recognition. To earn EPP certification, a product must demonstrate reduced impact on human health and the environment when compared to other products that serve the same purpose as measured by guidelines published by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Non-metallic
There is another relatively new product out today that is offered by Arch Wood Protection. The treatment is Wolmanized L³ Outdoor wood. It contains no copper as part of the preservative and uses a proprietary non-metallic preservative.

Boric Acid
Yet another class of wood treatment is focused on boric acid, as well as its oxides and salts which are called borates. Boric acid is a very-effective wood preservative. Conveniently, it is toxic to insects, but it has low toxicity with humans. That said, the problem with boric acid has always been that it is water-soluble. That means it can be floated into wood with water-based pressure treatments or applied with surface applications. But the boric acid will eventually leach out of the wood. That leaching process is dramatically accelerated if the wood is exposed to the elements. All of this means that wood treated with borates isn’t generally good for ground contact, and in any application, it has to be re-treated repeatedly with borate applications to ensure that the wood is preserved. Now, because borates have gotten another look from consumers, due to the perceived toxicity of alternative wood treatments, borates have seen some innovative uses. One company floats borate deep into wood fiber by mixing it with glycol, a kind of alcohol. The glycol flashes off, leaving the borate behind, and until the borate leaches out, it is a good termiticide, insecticide, and wood preservative. But here too, the wood has to be re-treated regularly.

Thermally-Modified Wood (TMW)
Another kind of wood treatment that you see gaining wider acceptance is heat treatment. Wood that is treated with heat is generally referred to as thermally-modified wood or TMW. This treatment process contains no chemicals or additives at all.  Like its name says, the thermally-modified process uses high heat and steam to change the very nature of the wood. In fact, the thermal process removes the aspects of the wood that serve as food. With no insects, fungus, or mold attacking the wood, the thermally-modified process can prevent for rot and decay. Specifically, the process removes or de-natures the sugars in the wood, leaving behind aspects of the wood that cannot be digested by insects or eaten by fungus and mold. After the wood is thermally treated, it can be stained, sealed, joined, and glued like regular wood.

No matter what type of treated wood you seek, you should be aware of its code acceptance. Some treatments are not code compliant, even though they have been around for a number of years. To get code approval, preservative companies can either work with the American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) to have their treated wood listed in the AWPA Standards. Or the preservative company will work with the International Code Council (ICC) Evaluation Service to earn an Evaluation Service Report (ESR). Without the support of either an AWPA listing or an ESR, there is no guarantee that a local code will allow a product on the job where treated wood is required. So, check the fact sheet from the wood provider or the wood treater to see if the wood is approved for use.

As the nation’s leading pressure treated lumber producer, we’re often contacted by fledgling companies seeking to gain a market foothold with a new wood preservative product or technology. Our staff of chemical engineers and wood technologists evaluates each new product opportunity with close scrutiny given to the efficacy, safety and value inherent in the new process or technology.

We manufacture for our customers only those products that pass our own very rigorous testing methods. Those products include the ProWood family of pressure treated lumber brands. Some products that don’t meet our high manufacturing and selling standards – whether for reasons of effectiveness, value or warranty concerns – end up in the general marketplace, regardless of our judgment.

Occasionally we receive an inquiry from one of our customers to quote a job that requires a product we have previously tested and don’t necessarily recommend. As a loyal supplier to that customer we will supply the job, while specifically disclaiming any liability in the event of the failure of that product to perform.

A recent example of this is our single-order agreement to sell a product called BluWood to one of our customers. BluWood is not a product we would recommend for its intended use but the specification in the building plan called for it. UFP will ship lumber to a BluWood facility for treatment and from there it will be shipped to UFP’s customer. Without our prior knowledge, EcoBlue, the company that makes BluWood, put out a press release announcing the order for this one job, while intimating an ongoing and growing relationship between our companies. This is not the case and we have asked EcoBlue to retract those statements that would lead the reader to infer that the two companies enjoy an ongoing partnership. We sold the product to our customer because it was specified and not because we advocated its use. Finally, there is no distribution agreement between EcoBlue and UFP, nor are there plans to create one.